My father’s retirement plans included cooking his way through Irma Rombauer’s classic cookbook, the Joy of Cooking. However, his culinary journey became waylaid and began and ended with cabbage borscht. With every iteration of this hearty soup, my father would wait expectantly as we sampled a spoonful. In spite of our reassurances that his soupe du jour met Cordon Bleu standards, he continued to perfect his art, pot after pot after pot. Understandably, cabbage was not high on my food bucket list until I tasted this recipe for melted green cabbage by Adeena Sussman published in her superb cookbook, Sababa.
Melted Green Cabbage
Ms. Sussman sears and braises humble green cabbage in stock and wine and transforms it into something luscious and indulgent. The dish is soft, succulent, deeply colored, and intensely flavored. Melted cabbage comes to us from the restaurant menus in Tel Aviv where vegetables from the shuk are reinvented as masterpieces. This easy method for “melting” cabbage uses a moist heat cooking method (as opposed to a dry heat method, like roasting) which helps the cabbage achieve its velvety smooth texture. Nutty and just slightly sweet, the silky mouthfeel of this cabbage dish continues to surprise me every time that I bite into it. It turns out, as it did in almost all matters of importance including this modest cruciferous vegetable, that father knew best.
Assemble your ingredients. Preheat the oven to 300 F. If the handle of your skillet isn’t oven-proof, cover it in a double layer of aluminum foil.
Quarter the cabbage, slicing carefully through the core. Remove the 4 outer leaves of the cabbage and slice through the core of the cabbage again, cutting the cabbage carefully into 8 wedges.
In a large, heavy, high-sided skillet or shallow Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper directly onto the oil and then arrange the cabbage wedges in the pot, making sure that each one is lying with its flat side making contact with the hot oil. Let the cabbage wedges cook until the undersides get nice and brown, about 6-7 minutes. Resist the urge to turn the cabbage but you can peek and make sure that the cabbage isn’t burning. If it is turning too dark too quickly, lower the heat. When the cabbage wedges are golden brown in color, flip them using a pair of tongs. Add the garlic and shallots to the pan and cook the cabbage wedges for another 6-7 minutes.
Add the wine and broth to the pan and bring it to a boil. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper along with the thyme if you’re using it. Cover the skillet or Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid and transfer the pan to the oven. Cook the cabbage for 2 1/2 hours. It will become soft and turn a deep mahogany brown. Serve the cabbage with any liquid accumulated in the pot. Season to taste with more salt and pepper.
Melted Green Cabbage
Humble green cabbage braised in stock and wine and cooked low and slow in the oven is transformed into something luscious and indulgent.
Ingredients
- 1/3 cup (75 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tsp (10 mL) kosher salt, divided (plus more to taste)
- 1/2 tsp (2 mL) coarsely cracked black pepper, divided (plus more to taste)
- 1 medium head of green cabbage, quartered (but not cored) and then cut again into 8 wedges
- 10 whole garlic cloves, peeled
- 4 shallots, peeled and halved
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) dry, white wine
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) chicken or vegetable broth
- 4 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme (optional)
Instructions
Preheat the oven to 300 F. If the handle of your skillet isn't oven-proof, cover it in a double layer of aluminum foil.
Quarter the cabbage, slicing carefully through the core. Remove the 4 outer leaves of the cabbage and slice through the core of the cabbage again, cutting the cabbage carefully into 8 wedges.
In a large, heavy, high-sided skillet or shallow Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper directly onto the oil and then arrange the cabbage wedges in the pot, making sure that each one is lying with its flat side making contact with the hot oil. Let the cabbage wedges cook until the undersides get nice and brown, about 6-7 minutes. Resist the urge to turn the cabbage but you can peak and make sure that the cabbage isn't burning. If it is becoming dark too quickly, lower the heat. When the cabbage wedges are golden brown in color, flip them using a pair of tongs. Add the garlic and shallots to the pan and cook the cabbage wedges for another 6-7 minutes.
Add the wine and broth to the pan and bring it to a boil. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper along with the thyme if you're using it. Cover the skillet or Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid and transfer the pan to the oven. Cook the cabbage for 2 1/2 hours. It will become soft and turn a deep mahogany brown. Serve the cabbage with any liquid accumulated in the pot. Season to taste with more salt and pepper.
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